Christopher Ward offers a piece of British history

To mark the 75th anniversary of the Battle of Britain, Christopher Ward is to launch one of the most significant watches in its history. Commemorating the Supermarine Spitfire fighter aircraft, the new Swiss-made limited-edition watch incorporates a piece of that history – a fragment of original aluminium alloy from the oldest and most historically significant airworthy Spitfire to have flown in the battle. Retailing at £3,495 ($4,800), the new C8 P7350 Chronometer comes in a 75-piece limited edition. 

The P7350 is the only Spitfire still flying that took part in the Battle of Britain. The metal was retrieved by Christopher Ward’s historic metal partner, TMB Art Metal, following restoration work on the plane in 2008 carried out by the Battle of Britain Memorial Flight.

Christopher Ward's C8 P7350 celebrates the Spitfire fighter aircraft

Cockpit clock inspires watch design

The design of the 44mm C8 Chronometer is based on the Smith Mk II A clock that was used in P7’s cockpit, including a careful matching of the original index fonts and colours and the black, anti-reflective case. The SuperLuminova SLN C5 and T-C1 paints use green and blue emissions, respectively. The back of the watch reveals a piece of metal from the P7’s cockpit protected by scratch-resistant, museum-grade sapphire crystal. A silhouette of the plane’s plan has been precision-cut into the metal, showing the registration and elliptical wing formation to great effect.

Powering the C8 P7350 is a small-second, hand-wound version of Christopher Ward’s ground-breaking in-house movement, Calibre SH21, launched in July 2014. As well as providing 120 hours of power via SH21’s twin barrels, each movement is a certified COSC chronometer. The watch has a leather strap with CW motif buckle.

Mike France, co-founder of Christopher Ward, said the C8 P7350 emerged from the company’s long-standing ambition for the brand: “As a personally held passion among the Christopher Ward team, we have had a long-established obsession to create an authentic, fitting and original commemorative aviation watch linking to the Battle of Britain and to the Spitfire, in particular. Working with our partner TMB Art Metal is always something of an adventure and we were delighted with the discovery that the P7350, a true veteran of the Battle of Britain, was made available during the BBMF’s 2008 restoration. It’s a rare privilege to find an opportunity to use history in this way.”

Adding to the special nature of this watch, Christopher Ward has arranged with the Battle of Britain Memorial Flight team for the 75 limited-edition models and their fragments of P7350 to take to the skies as part of a Spitfire flypast on June 18 2015. The flypast is the centrepiece of a Battle of Britain commemorative evening at Bentley Priory, home of the Battle of Britain Museum in the London borough of Stanmore. From the pre-order list of customers for the new model, the company will be inviting two customers and their guest to attend and be presented with their numbered, limited-edition watch.

New C7 Rapide Chronometer Limited Edition

In other news, Christopher Ward has expanded its motoring collection with the new C7 Rapide Chronometer Limited Edition. The new COSC-certified model is powered by the thermo-compensated ETA 251.264 quartz movement and only 500 pieces are available, retailing from £599 to £650.

C7 Rapide Chronometer Limited Edition

Highlights of the timepiece include the deep cross-hatch engraving used on the crown and chronograph controls, combining ergonomic effectiveness with design clarity. The sub-dials on the multi-layered precision black dial capture minutes, seconds and tenths (from left to right, respectively), while the watch’s tachymeter provides on-track timekeeping. The clear dial is completed by the brand’s signature circular date window positioned at the four o’ clock position.

Each model is engraved with an individual serial number and is presented on an Italian leather strap, including red leather lining and the Bader deployment. Models with a black natural rubber or a stainless steel adjustable bracelet option are also offered. 

“The new C7 Rapide Chronometer retains the essential design DNA of the Rapide family but now brings COSC-certified timing precision to the C7 collection,” said Mike France. “We are constantly striving to deliver unprecedented quality at all price levels and this launch is a stunning combination of the Rapide’s exciting motoring heritage with exceptional engineering and I’m confident that it will delight anyone with a passion for motoring.”

Visit www.christopherward.co.uk

Asian Renaissance: MCM chief speaks out

"Asian Renaissance" was the title of the uplifting and passionate speech given by Sung-Joo Kim, Chief Visionary Officer of German luxury fashion brand MCM, at the Conde Nast International Luxury Conference in Florence (April 22-23 2015). In a Q&A session with International Vogue Editor Suzy Menkes, the Korean-born businesswoman and philanthropist noted the significance of travel retail sales in Korea; the importance of K-pop collaborations in addition to forging partnerships with Western design/art talents; and coined the phrase "inclusive luxury" when calling on the industry to step up their CSR initiatives. 

MCM Chief Visionary Officer Sung-Joo Kim with International Vogue Editor Suzy Menkes (Photo by Andreas Rentz/Getty Images for Condé Nast International Luxury Conference)

Here is what Korea's leading businesswoman in the luxury sphere told the conference attendees: 

1. You are a key player in the Korean and Asian luxury market – in fact you have been its leader in the field for nearly three decades. What changes have you seen since the early beginnings of luxury consumerism?

•    Asia, as a global economic powerhouse and leader, has increased the size of luxury market and shifted the luxury demographic from the traditional European luxury customer. They are younger and better informed overall.

•    Tastes and trends are not only dictated from West to East, but exchanged between East and West.

•    Technology has allowed consumers to be much better informed and interconnected globally, and this has changed how luxury brands think about how they present themselves globally.

2. You have taken over the European brand MCM and transformed it into a label which really resonates with the youth of Asia. You are talking to a room of European luxury heritage brands – I am sure many of them would like to know your secret. How have you done this?

•    Demographically, Asia has a much higher proportion of youthful luxury consumers than many other parts of the world. MCM’s great strength has been borne out of our ability to speak to this younger consumer through innovative designs and communications that resonated more deeply.

•    From its foundation in 1976 in Munich, MCM has been a brand unafraid to experiment with its designs, to showcase bolder colours and challenging our customers to be more daring in how they could express themselves. This helped us tap into the desires of young Asian customers. In addition, MCM’s ability to reinterpret concepts and products in a distinctive and edgy manner has helped the brand to stand out, and resonate with customers who want to stand out and be different.

Sung-Joo Kim (Photo by Andreas Rentz/Getty Images for Condé Nast International Luxury Conference)

3. Probably the shout out to the world about the youth mania in Korea came from Psy’s “Gangnam Style”. How important is pop culture to the marketing of luxury goods now? How much of MCM’s success do you attribute to your collaborations with K-Pop stars?

•    MCM as a brand has always had deep roots in music and the arts, and our close-knit relationships with Korean stars gave us very organic exposure to the youthful luxury customers in Asia and helped us create a dedicated fanbase.

•    This informs our vision of "New School Luxury" going forwards as we become a global brand. We seek to interpret this way of engaging and resonating with customers globally, not only with K-pop stars but also through promoting youthful, cutting-edge talent in all cultural fields.

•    MCM has uniquely been a luxury brand with deep and organic roots in the music and art worlds. We have collaborated with top Western artists and design talents who are edgy and cool, such as Craig & Karl, will.i.am and the German artist Stefan Strumbel. Later this year, we’re introducing a collection in partnership with Tobias Rehberger, who is the most famous German contemporary artist alive today. 

4. You have many different Asian customers – what are the differences between say the Chinese, the Japanese and the Koreans?

•    The differences in customer tastes have no doubt been informed by long established historical and cultural norms. The Japanese have certainly become known for their refined and detail orientated appreciation of aesthetics. The Chinese have been known as more bold, while Koreans have been touted as a balance between the two. However, it is difficult to say how many of these stereotypes hold true, especially now in a digitally interconnected age. 

•    Korea is a geopolitical hotspot between China, Russia, Japan and the US, and cultural influences have also reflected that over time, which has meant Korea has absorbed all of this great cultural influence and turned in into something both unique and digestible for the rest of Asia. Korea's greatest strength may be in being able to interpret disparate cultural ideas and repackage them into both innovative and fresh ideas for the Asian market.

5. The Korean travel and duty free retail market is the world’s largest. Why do you think that is?

•    The Korean travel retail market is worth $7.5bn – it’s bigger than airports like London Heathrow and Dubai. Part of the reason is geopolitical – we are physically located nearby – literally in between the world’s two biggest luxury shopping nations. Seoul is 1.5 hours away from Tokyo and 1.5 hours from Shanghai.

•    With China becoming more open in conjunction with a rapidly growing middle class, the Chinese tourist has been a rather ubiquitous phenomenon that we have witnessed all over the world. According to recent figures, almost half a million Chinese visitors come to Korea in one month alone.

•    The Chinese visit Korea in huge numbers because they love K-pop, Korean TV shows and Korean-style entertainment. The famous TV show My Love From the Stars has had more than 3bn views online so far, so this is a lucrative market for brand endorsement. 

•    The shopping scene is very vibrant in Seoul, blending new and old to stunning effect. Tourists come to buy high quality Korean cosmetics, home electronics and luxury goods. Hong Kong is now viewed by some Chinese as part of mainland China, and many want more of a unique experience when travelling abroad.

6. Considering that MCM is a German brand with an important business in Korea, what prospects do you see for a local Korean luxury brand to make an impact worldwide?

•    Historically brands have succeeded in the West and found markets for expansion in Asia. More recently, many brands and products are finding success in Asia and expanding to the West. Let's take for example Uniqlo, or something as simple as BB cream. 

•    Already there are so many young Korean designers emerging onto the world stage. There are also many talented Korean designers currently heading design teams at some of the world’s top fashion houses. Some of these great designers will be launching their own labels in the years to come and they have great potential to have great success worldwide and even create a new sensation – maybe creating even more impact than Japanese designers did in Paris in the 1980 and 1990s. 

7. How important is corporate and social responsibility to the Asian customer?

CSR is very important to Asian customers and corporations today. Since I started running my own business, I have donated 10% of my profits annually to initiatives that I support, including women’s professional development, the arts and religious causes. The Sungjoo Foundation has a long tradition of community engagement both in Korea and abroad. We should all include “inclusive luxury” in our luxury businesses.

Conde Nast Luxury Conference buzz

Speakers at the inaugural Conde Nast International Luxury Conference in Florence (April 22-23 2015) emphasised the rapid pace of change in the modern world and the importance of technology, particularly among today’s younger generation.

Apple Watch designer Jony Ive started off proceedings by saying that technology was changing so fast these days that he does not know what will be coming along in six months’ time, as everything is changing so fast.

Michele Norsa, CEO of Ferragamo, titled his session “A Different Speed”. He stressed how fast the world was moving, declaring: “Everything is moving at unbelievable speed”. He gave the example of the Russian and Ukraine crisis – one minute the Russians were travelling around the world and spending a lot of money, and the next minute the rouble had collapsed and Russian travel numbers had significantly reduced.

Ferragamo CEO Michele Norsa (Photo: Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images for Conde Nast International Luxury Conference)

THE IMPORTANCE OF CHINA

Norsa said that, despite the current economic slowdown in China, he remained optimistic about the future spending potential of the Chinese consumer, particularly the importance of Chinese travellers. He believes that the China luxury market will grow for the next 5-10 years. He said that there had been a downturn in the Macau gambling sector, which had affected retail sales on the island, but noted that Seoul Incheon wanted to install a casino near the airport. (At this point, International Vogue Editor Suzy Menkes laughed and said she could not believe this!)

Norsa said that it was in the Chinese DNA to gamble for pleasure and not just for money. “As time spent in airports becomes longer, it makes sense [to locate a casino near an airport]. Our customers are spending more time at airports,” he stated. He said the Occupy Central protests had affected Hong Kong in a “significant” way. However, he remains confident about Hong Kong’s future and that of the China market.

INDIA AND BRAZIL ARE THE FUTURE FOR LUXURY

The luxury industry had changed beyond recognition compared to what it was before, and this has surprised even the luxury industry itself, Norsa noted. He believes that India and Brazil will become two of the biggest luxury markets in the future. Despite the big changes in the luxury industry, luxury values had remained the same. He noted how Ferragamo sandals looked similar today to how they had done 70 years before – but that now they were perhaps lighter. “Feelings and inspirations remain the same; they don’t change over the passing years,” he said.

MIDDLE EAST HAS RISEN RAPIDLY

Norsa believes that the Middle East market has grown at the fastest pace of all markets over the past 25 years, and now boasts top hotels and malls. Dubai is a centre of tourism from all over the world, and millions of transit passengers pass through the airport for a short period of time.

KOREA AND JAPAN ARE RECEIVING HUGE TOURIST NUMBERS

Norsa noted the huge amount of Chinese travellers to Japan and Korea. He said that the luxury market should “think positively about gifting”, as bringing home gifts to friends, relations and colleagues was very important among Asian travellers.

Norsa also observed the price gap between mainland China and Europe. This is currently a challenge for luxury brands, he added.

The Japanese are travelling much more than before, he said, with huge investment going into Ginza, for example.

IMPORTANCE OF TRAVEL RETAIL

Norsa cited figures from IATA revealing that global airline passenger demand rose 5.9% last year with record carryings of 3.3bn compared to 2013. “These numbers are interesting for Ferragamo. Ferragamo has always invested in the potential of airports – not just for brand visibility, but it’s a way to reach our rich target customers in a different way.”

BALANCE BETWEEN MEN’S AND WOMEN’S ITEMS

Interestingly, Norsa revealed that Ferragamo is aiming to achieve a balance between men’s and women’s items in its product assortment: 60% women and 40% men. He wants to use all channels, e.g. department stores, especially in the US.

THINKING ABOUT TOMORROW

Norsa stressed the importance inside Ferragamo of thinking about the future. “At Ferragamo we have a fast, agile decision chain. We are always thinking about tomorrow.”

Deau introduces alternative luxury Cognac

Deau Cognac is positioning itself as “a real alternative” to the better known brands available in travel retail in terms of look, quality and positioning. With 40% of its business currently in Asia – and a new commercial office recently opened in Zhuhai – Deau is building its business in the region.

Deau Cognac Privilege

Deau has a long history, dating back to 1685 when Louis Deau settled in the region as a wine grower, ultimately discovering pot stills. Today the domain – covering over 40 hectares of land – is owned by the Bru Legaret family, with Véronique Bru Legaret at the helm. 

Originally Deau sold its eaux-de-vie to other major Cognac players in the market for their own use. But in 2012 the family decided to market the spirit under its own label. In just three years, the Deau core range of six Cognacs – Collection VS, VSOP, Napoleon, XO, Black and Louis Memory – has won many awards, including International Wines & Spirits Competition, World Drink Awards, San Francisco World Spirits Competition and the Chinese Wine & Spirits Association. The company has also won awards for its sail-shaped decanters which give the range a particularly luxury appeal and positioning.

Competing at the top end of the market

Deau is aiming to compete at the very top end of the market with its Deau Cognac Privilège, a blend of Cognacs selected by its Master Blender and slowly matured in the five ageing cellars; and Deau La Vie en Or, which stands for “the life in gold” or simply, Deau LVO Cognac). Originally introduced as a Christmas and New Year offering in 2012, Deau LVO is presented in a decanter layered with gold leaf that was commissioned by Parisian fine jeweller Arthus Bertrand. Also available are two upscale tasting boxes, enabling consumers to try either three or all six of the main Deau Cognac expressions.

Said export director Olivier Hidier: “Deau is presenting itself as a true alternative brand, offering the prestigious and luxury values of Cognac that have always been promoted by our peers, but with the addition of our own USP in terms of look, quality and range.

“We believe the potential for Deau in travel retail is excellent. We recognise our main challenge is that, while Deau is a very old French house, we only started exporting under our own label in 2012 and therefore there is still a lack of brand awareness. But that is changing. We are strong in Asia and are growing in North America, Europe, Russia and the Middle East. We see travel retail as a great showcase and excellent platform from which to build the name of Deau.”

Craigellachie brings a world first to Taipei airport

Bacardi has unveiled an ultra-premium shopper sampling experience that brings to life the fascinating “worm-tub” process used in the crafting of Craigellachie Speyside single malt Scotch whisky.

Craigellachie's worm tub

Traditional technique

The interactive counter-top sampling unit is a derivation of a scale model of the famous worm-tubs from the Craigellachie distillery, which help give the whisky its distinct, meaty character. Craigellachie is one of the very few whiskies still benefiting from this traditional technique first used in 1891 when the brand was created. Despite the expense involved, it produces a far heavier spirit and imparts unusually strong, sulphury flavours. 

During the sampling experience, brand ambassadors pour in the Craigellachie dram through the top of the copper piping while explaining how it replicates the condensation process at the distillery. The liquid journeys through the worm-tub before being poured through a brass tap into a glass.

Shoppers at Taipei airport are the first to experience the worm-tub sampling serve as part of a month-long Craigellachie campaign that began in March.

Another aspect of malt enthusiasts' fascination with Craigellachie is that it is produced using an oil fire, giving the specific level of sulphur desired and leading to a spirit with a noticeably heavier character than most.

Two aged Craigellachie expressions are available in travel retail: a 13yo; and a travel retail exclusive 19yo.